A Word About Crêpes

Pronounced "crepps".
A tradition from Normandy (Where the Allies landed on D-Day - 2 hours northwest of Paris by car).

There are 2 kinds of crêpes - sweet and savory. Most tourists only see the sidewalk crêpe stands in Paris, but there are crêperies (crêpe restaurants) everywhere.

The thing to do is to go for a meal. One orders an apéritif perhaps (alcoholic cocktail, juice or soda) and the main course is a savory crêpe called a galette (not a crêpe). It is made in the same fashion - an ultrathin, very wide pancake, but with brown Sarazin flour - which is like whole wheat flour. The toppings are usually sliced ham, grated swiss cheese, and any combination of: more cheese, ground beef, sausage, a fried egg, chopped bacon, fresh lettuce on top, mushrooms, goat cheese, tomatoes, onions, walnuts, eggplant or seafood.

The traditional drink to accompany is Cidre - which also comes from the Normandy region where they grow many apples. French cidre is what Americans might call Nonalcoholic Apple Champagne. It is light and fizzy with an apple-juice flavor - not too sweet. It is not at all the strong autumn flavor of American apple cider. Cidre Doux is soft - 2% alcohol, while Cidre Brut is hard - 4% alcohol. You can hardly feel the alcohol - and almost never taste it. It is traditionally served in small porcelain bowls.

For dessert one orders another crêpe - a sweet crêpe this time. Made from a more cake-like flour. The crêpe is thinner and smaller and topped with any combination of butter, sugar, chocolate sauce, Nutella, banana, walnuts, jam, pears, lemon juice, Cointreau, Calvados or Grand Marnier (flambée of course.)

They may look small and thin, but you almost never finish both crêpes, or if you do, you can't walk straight for a while afterwards....

November Strike

Well, it's been over a month since I last wrote anything. Perhaps you were looking for pictures and news of the big strike? Perhaps news of more riots in France? Or gossip about the president's divorce? Honestly it's just been too busy lately to write anything, but I'll attempt to update a few things over the next couple of days....

The first strike I wrote about in October was nothing compared to the 2 week fiasco that took place in mid-November. For my part, I prepared early, and packed enough to stay at a colleague's house for the first few days. Although it was advertized to start on Wednesday the 14th, trains mysteriously began to run late on Monday evening. Tuesday already had a few trains delayed or even cancelled because of "technical difficulties", and the Metro was so packed on Tuesday morning that I had to manage my way on two busses to get to school - total time from Rambouillet to Paris on Tuesday morning: 2 1/2 hours.

Stayed at N.'s apartment on Tuesday and Wendesday evening, didn't see much of what was going on elsewhere on the trains, but on Thursday the trains were running to Rambouillet, so I left most of my luggage at school (so I could fit on the train with one small bag) and walked the 4.5 kilometers to the station in 45 minutes. In fact the train was pretty empty, since they had prepared for quite a few trains to run at rush hour, and most people were avoiding the trains altogether.

Still, the only reason I had a train was because we live outside of the RER commuter trains. Those were hardly running at all, and I only saw one Metro go by all WEEK.

So for the rest of the week I took my bike on the train and biked through Paris from the station to school. Even so, the bike lanes had heavy traffic, and the cars were mostly stopped in both directions during rush hour. At one point a roundabout was so jam packed with cars all perpendicular to eachother and honking, that I couldn't even weave my bike through - had to dodge pedestrians on the sidewalks to go around the knot.

Another evening the traffic wasn't even edging anywhere, and when I got near the station I found a policeman had roped off one of the main roads and traffic had to turn around. There didn't seem to be any reason, so bikes were allowed through, but the officer just stood there watching the cars.

Overall, people took about 2 days off of work, started from the house at 5:30am, took bikes, scooters, rollerblades, skateboards, walked, or attempted to drive. A car from one side of Paris to the other took about 2 and 1/2 hours - the same it would take to walk.

I don't really have an opinion on whether the strikers should get what they wanted or not - I don't really think much will happen in the end, but for some reason the right to go on strike is still one of the most revered civil duties in France. In case you hadn't heard, the railroad workers were followed by the Postal service, Elecric and Gas service, lawyers, teachers and most recently high school students. I think going on strike is a disease that will never be cured here, no matter what the strikers win or lose...

Le Grand Harlequin

by Gilles Alexandre

Happy Birthday Grandma

A big Happy Birthday in rememberance of Grandma :)

Winifred was born in 1908. The family lived in Angola, Indiana, where her father taught music at Tri-State University, and her mother played the organ. She grew up in the ‘twenties with her younger sister, Elizabeth. Her nickname was Skip, and her sister’s nickname was Lib or Libby. They played often at the Lake, where her parents had built a cottage, one of the first dwellings in that area since the displacement of the Native Americans. She learned to drive on a Ford Model-A, and attended DePauw University. In the ‘thirties she went on to nearly finish a Master’s degree in business at Columbia University, but left the program early to marry Lloyd. In Goshen, Indiana she taught in a one-room schoolhouse, while her husband worked on power lines for the electric company. She gave birth to two sons, Lewis Neal (Neal) and Lloyd Jr. (nicknamed Bo), but when Neal was just seven years old, her husband was electrocuted on the job, and she was left a widow. Not wanting any other man to tell her how to raise her sons, she managed on her own throughout the 1940's and 1950's and never remarried. She taught math at the local public school for 30 some years, meanwhile raising a few chickens, sheep and rabbits as she could. She was an expert cook and used only the purest butter, salt, and bacon fat as well as the freshest vegetables and meats. Some of her most remembered dishes include fried chicken and mashed potatoes with waxed beans, pancakes with fresh maple syrup, fresh bread, 10-boy lamb curry, and of course cinnamon roles from scratch. In her later years she traveled to Israel, China, and Europe before settling down at the Cottage on the Lake to cook for visitors and watch her grandchildren learn to swim. She was a hard worker and a devoted parent. She got her first gray hair at 60, raked her own leaves until she was eighty, and enjoyed life longer than anyone would have guessed. It was said by some that she had 9 lives, for she survived cancer, kidney failure, heart trouble, glaucoma, and even the quietness of living alone. She died peacefully, aged 93, with her sons close by.We remember her fondly, an honest and inspiring woman.

Strike!

Ahhhhhhhhhh, the French. How comforting to know that there are some ideologies so dear to their hearts that they'll never outgrow them. For instance, the deep-seated love of screwing the government, which inevitably leads to the ubiquitous strike.
Tomorrow's the day. Already warnings and announcements are everywhere as people buy bikes, plan carpools or call-off of work in preparation for the biggest strike since 1995. As I sit at home actually somewhat thankful to be ill with such good timing, I can't wait to hear the "horror" stories. Tonight on the news were a few pathetic laments from the 'man on the street', whining that he'll have to pay for gas and take his car tomorrow when he's already paid for his monthly rail pass, or the woman who pouts about taking two busses and walking to get to work. Meanwhile the roads will be bumper to bumper and about 2% of the train service running, it'll be total gridlock with I estimate about 30% of the rest of France, 40% of Paris, and 80% of suburban Paris completely stranded. Let the games begin!

A day in Paris

Yesterday was an unexpected delight. I rarely get to spend the day visiting in Paris, but found myself with C, his friend visiting from Germany, and another friend of mine.
First met S at the train station, and narrowly escaped having the car towed. These shady-looking tow-trucks pulled up and blocked-in the cars in the no-parking zone, then proceeded to LIFT a few cars with a sort-of built-in crane and straps that go under the car. There were no markings on the trucks, and in 5 minutes, 3 people had lost their cars. What if there was someone's dog inside?
Next we went to lunch at a great Italian restaurant in behind Montmartre. As we were eating, people in various costumes kept passing by the window outside, and we realized the street was filling with people and marching bands preparing for a parade. Then a whole troop of mannequins in Venitian festival costumes piled into the restaurant and took photos behind the bar.

After lunch we found a good spot and watched the parade go by, which turned out to be the Venganges de Montmartre - the festival to celebrate the harvest, and the wine harvest in particular.

Each region of France, and a few random groups from other countries, had their own elaborate costumes and flags representing their agricultural guild.

There were the asparagus farmers,

the cherry farmers, the florists, the gardeners, the Normans who are fishermen, the Champagnois who make Champagne, the Bordelais who make wine in Bordeaux, the Alsacians who make Reisling, and quite a few other farmers and vintners carrying rakes, baskets, passing around bottles of wine and using the tasting cups around their necks.

There were also several groups of traditional dancers and musicians with local instruments and costumes.



The older people looked particularly convincing in the dress of their native region. You'd think they just came through a time warp from some French village in 1840.

The strangest part was last. A group of baton-twirling majorettes from age 6 to 16. While they wore costumes that might have belonged in a homecoming parade in Smalltown, USA, they looked phenominally out of place in the middle of a French cultural parade, and to top it off, they marched in unison with bitter scowels on their faces while the car behind them blared nothing but techno clubbing music. Wow.

After the parade we walked up to Montmartre itself, passing all the tasting booths for various wines and agricultural products: fresh fruits, patés and cheeses.

Only bought some fresh raspberries and sat on the steps, posing as background for a dozen tourists' vacation photos.

We passed back through the giant flea-markets at Porte de Clignancourt, and later we moved on to St. Michel and Odéon to meet friends in a bar to watch the Rugby semi-final against England. The waiters were quite snooty and the posh clientele tried to keep their cool while they sipped champagne and cheered for Les Bleus.
The match was bittersweet. A great feeling of destiny filled the place as we were winning, with some 30 people watching the match through the windows on the streets outside, until the last 4 minutes when the referees called a penalty in England's favor, and they pulled ahead to win. It would have been great, but it was not to be. Even the Caveman collapsed on the field and cried.....

Mushrooms, Rugby, Food

Yesterday we had a visit from C's cousin. C made pizza and I made a pineapple upside-down cake for the first time. (Hint: it's easier with ready-made cake batter)
Then we watched the big game: the French rugby team actually beat the New Zealand All Blacks!

They were face to face when the Blacks did their tribal intimidation dance, a first apparently. Check out the one hairy French guy in the red shirt who never smiles, that's Chabal, called the Caveman (see photo above).


Afterwards there was much honking of horns and shouting in the streets. Next Saturday we play England, who beat Australia yesterday, making them actually shed tears....

Today we did a little tour of the woods since the sun was out and the air was just wonderful, warm and fresh at the same time. Gathered chestnuts from the forest floor (more for fun than for eating) and picked and ate the last blackberries.

Saw a variety of wild mushroom species that are all edible.



Tonight I had a nice evening of American culture: watched football live from the states on cable (Steelers kick ass) drank beer and ate tacos with imported seasoning mix and better than velveeta cheese.

Home sweet home.

It's good to be an international school teacher

Three weeks of school, and I like it already. First two weeks flew by, didn't even see them. Third week was the bonding field trip with the 7th grade to the Loire Valley.

We had a good team of teachers and a good group of kids. Saw castles, river ecosystems, Da Vinci's inventions, gardens, a cave, a chocolate factory of sorts, went on a boat ride and practiced Renaissance dancing.

The best parts were watching the kids in the evening activities which included ice breakers, team competitions, art activities and such. I also had a great time being the tour guide at some real French castles - my history degree finally paying off!

The kids were so smart and inquisitive and well behaved - we got compliments from a couple who had seen us at several chateaux and from the staff and other visitors at a restaurant that was rather fancy when they observed how quiet and civilized 37 twelve-year-olds could be.

School is good otherwise. There are quite a few British teachers and a variety of other nationalities. I'm teaching grades 7,8,9,10 history and 11 and 12 Theory of Knowledge (like philosophy). A demanding schedule, but I love a good challenge.

Next I'll be heading to Berlin with the 11th and 12th grade history students as a chaperone, and meanwhile planning the 10th grade history trip to Normandy - an overnight stay with 90 students and 10 teachers.

That Time of Year

That time of year thou may'st in me behold
When yellow leaves, or none, or few, do hang
Upon those boughs which shake agianst the cold,
Bare ruin'd choirs, where late the sweet birds sang:

In me thou see'st the twilight of such day
As after sunset fadeth in the west,
Which by and by black night doth take away,
Death's second self, that seals up all in rest:

In me thou see'st the glowing of such fire
That on the ashes of his youth doth lie,
As the death-bed whereon it must expire,
Consum'd with that which it was nourish'd by:

-This thou perceiv'st, which makes thy love more strong,
To love that well which thou must leave ere long.

William Shakespeare (1564-1616)

Polygamy and slavery in America

Amazing, that religious freedom will even protect fundamentalist sects that force 14 year-old girls to marry men twice their age, marry cousins, and allow what is essentially slavery. The Fundamentalist Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (a breakaway independant sect not officially affiliated with the Mormons) apparently practices its total domination program unhindered by the U.S. government in the southern areas of Utah. The leader of the group, a Mr. Jeffs, has total control over members, including telling each young girl who she has to marry, exiling teenage boys who attempt to watch movies or talk to girls, and actually removing wives from undesirable husbands and giving them to other men! How the United States can turn a blind eye to actual sexual slavery and ownership is beyond me. While Mr. Jeffs is now in custody and charged with sexual crimes, what is being done to help the young men and women who are suffering psychological torture in the name of freedom of religion?
I bet the only reason that the government has let them get away with marrying and trading underage girls like cattle and abandoning underage boys in the street is because it's a Christian sect. Any other sort of polygamous worship of pagan or ancient greek fertility gods for instance would have had a Waco response.
NYT Article about abandoned boys

Summer of Travel and Concerts - parts 2

Back home in Rambouillet after jet-setting for a few weeks. Didn't deserve all the vacation time, but since I wouldn't have been working anyway, might as well spend the time visiting people!

Acapulco:
Had a fun week with Mom and K. at the beach. Mom won the trip at a charity auction, so we made up for the price difference by shopping and charging everything to the room! Shared lots of laughs and good food, and refined the art of tanning, reading Harry Potter and sipping Coronas :)

So glad I got to just sit and fry in the hot sun! I miss summer when it just chooses to not visit northern Europe...

Flew straight back to Paris, and planned to leave after a day of rest for a road trip to tour northern Italy with C. but when he backed up the car to load our stuff...
a rock flung from a nearby lawnmower cancelled our plans.
So after a day of grumbling and looking at prices of last minute flights and road distances, we settled on a road trip closer to home. Only 5 hours by car instead of 9, and do-able in a 4-day visit, we decided to visit the low countries instead of Italy

Although the weather wasn't quite as warm or sunny, at least it didn't rain. We stayed in a cute inn and saw really old windmills...

...toured the Rijksmuseum and Rembrandt's house, rented bikes and saw a bit of Amsterdam.

Then it was off to Belgium for Pukkelpop!
This 3-day concert festival was the biggest I'd ever seen, and the best organized as well. We camped in a field of thousands, and saw concerts by Basement Jaxx, Laurent Garnier, UNKLE, DJ Jazzy Jeff, LCD Sound System, Smashing Pumpkins, Nine Inch Nails and Tool! The music was pretty great, but the crowd was lackluster and not dancing or getting into it enough at all. Oh well.

And last put not least, Rock en Seine, the last concert festival of the season, in Paris:
Saw Biffy Clyro from Scotland, the Hives, 2 Many DJ's, UNKLE again (which was way better this time), (could have seen Tool again too but we had to go to a wedding on Saturday), a little bit of Mark Ronson, Kings of Leon, and Faithless, and........ BJORK! Sigh.

So it's back to work now, getting ready for full time teaching again and very happy about it. I need to make a little money to pay for all these vacations!!!

Bridge

Such a stupid, horrible accident. Why did anyone design a bridge where the entire weight rests on four points only a few feet wide? Why did they design the bridge for the "short term"? And why has no one thought ahead of the costs of repairing and keeping-up with all the millions of crappily constructed bridges in the U.S. when they were designing the infrastructure of a 200+ million vehicle society?

Interstate 35 West before it collapsed:

And another question posed 24 hours after the collapse:
Why hasn't anyone remove the cars from the bridge yet? Why were people left in the cars on the bridge to die, why haven't helicopters airlifted the cars and their occupants if the bridge is so unstable? Why aren't there more divers and rescue people in the water and on the bridge?
Smells of Katrina management if you ask me....

Summer of Travel -Part 1

The summer is flying by with places to go and people to see.

Athens:

I had the amazing good fortune of being sent on a business trip to Athens, Greece in early July. My new school belongs to an international curriculum, and requires teachers to have common training. I didn't expect to like Greece so much, but I definitely want to go back... Met great people and soaked up the beautiful hot sun.

Yes.

Pittsburgh:

Feeling too homesick, decided to fly home early to be with family and friends in late July. Saw Harry Potter, read Harry Potter, spied Harry Potter in everyone's house that I visited..... Played pool, slept in, visited friends in Maryland and Washington D.C.

Ate out at restaurants and visited the National Gallery art museum as well as the glass art show at Phipps botanical gardens.

Wish I could stay a month, but I'm off again tomorrow...

Good stuff

Some fun stuff going on lately in Rambouillet:


We went hiking in the forest and found a nice path in an area that was pretty natural, on a hillside near a stream.

I had a nice birthday and everyone had a good time at the Italian restaurant:


I got candles, bath soaps, and a nice spice rack for our kitchen:


Been working on my balcony garden and just pretty much trying to keep up with it as it grows like crazy!


Went to a baptism for C's cousin's little girl. There was a big buffet afterwards with lots of Champagne, a traditional cake made of cream puffs glued together with caramel glaze and brittle, another strawberry cream cake, and a third raspberry cream cake that we didn't even get to...


And on the back balcony the pansies that Mom bought for us last year cross-pollenated with some of the other varieties so that when I planted the seeds from last year, I got some mixed colors this year.